Polyherbal Lip Hydrant Healed Chapped and Rough Lips, Compared to Petroleum Gel

Image Credit: © Paweł Michałowski - stock.adobe.com

New research highlights the benefits of a novel herbal lip hydrant formulation made with polyherbal extracts.¹ Patients saw a significant improvement in chapped lips and were satisfied with the treatment after 28 days. The product is comprised of six herbs: peppermint oil, perilla extract, emblica fruit extract, guava leaf oil, galanga rhizome extract, and green tea leaf extract. Each has distinct anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.²

“The growing market for herbal lip care products reflects the increasing demand for natural solutions that offer antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and emollient properties,” the authors wrote.

The randomized, double-blind, controlled trial took place at the Dermatology Research Center Clinic of King Chulalongkorn Memorial Hospital from January 1 to March 27, 2024. Thai participants (n = 66) were between the ages of 18 and 40 with an average age of 28.52 years. Nearly 64% of the patients were female. All participants had self-reported dry lips with other complaints of chapped, dark lips and wrinkles.

The patients were randomly assigned (n = 33 per group) to apply either the lip hydrant or petroleum gel once a day before bedtime for 28 days. They were also asked to avoid any other lip products during the trial period. The test formulation consisted of the herbal mixture, water, xanthan gum, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, Caprylhydroxamicacid, 1,2-Hexanediol, and Butylene glycol.

Investigators used a modified visual assessment scale to measure lip condition, texture wrinkles, and hemoglobin levels at baseline and on day 28. Professional photographs, Antera 3D, and Fotofinder systems were also used to evaluate. Participants also recorded their own satisfaction and ratings of lip dryness and appearance.

Lip roughness and dryness improved in both groups, according to visual assessments (p < 0.001). There was no significant difference between each product. However, the test group had a significantly greater reduction in chapped lips (p < 0.05) with noticeable improvements in appearance observed through photographs and microscopic images. There were no differences in lip texture, wrinkles, melanin, or hemoglobin levels among the cohorts.

The percentage of patients in the test group who saw an improvement increased from 54.55% on day 1 to 81.82% on day 28 (p < 0.05). This increase was much smaller in the control group. Both groups reported substantial improvement in dryness from baseline to day 28, according to online patient assessment questionnaires (p < 0.01).

In terms of product satisfaction, these levels increased from 39.39% on day 1 to 51.52% on day 28 in the test group. Conversely, the control group saw a decrease in satisfaction, dropping from 48.48% to 45.45%. Just 4 patients observed minimal adverse effects of irritation and swelling, 3 in the test group and 1 in the control group. Nearly half of the participants stated that they would purchase the product if it were available.

A molecular and cellular study further supported these findings. The Nrf2 protein level, which fights against skin barrier damage, was significantly elevated after treatment with the herbal extracts. Several of the extracts demonstrated an ability to strengthen cell adherence and renewal as well.

These results are consistent with previous studies that emphasize the beneficial impact of herbs in skincare. According to the researchers, however, this is the first instance in which the Fotofinder tool has been used to analyze the lip surface. The Antera 3D technology has only been utilized in one previous study of the lips.³

“Despite the lack of statistically significant differences in objective measures such as wrinkle depth and texture, the observed trends towards improvement suggest a potential benefit of the polyherbal lip hydrant,” the authors said.

In future research, investigators hope to incorporate other measurements, such as transepidermal water loss, to accurately capture lip hydration levels. Additionally, a longer study duration with a more diverse population group based on age and ethnicity should be employed to determine long-term benefits.

References

1. Sutthiboonyapan P, Sriratanasak N, Innets B, et al. A Randomized Double-Blind Controlled Evaluation of the Therapeutic Benefits of an Herbal Lip Hydrant. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(3):e70041. doi:10.1111/jocd.70041

2. Wińska K, Mączka W, Łyczko J, Grabarczyk M, Czubaszek A, Szumny A. Essential Oils as Antimicrobial Agents-Myth or Real Alternative?. Molecules. 2019;24(11):2130. Published 2019 Jun 5. doi:10.3390/molecules24112130

3. Tamura E, Ishikawa J, Yasuda Y, Yamamoto T. The efficacy of synthetic pseudo-ceramide for dry and rough lips. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021;43(2):158-164. doi:10.1111/ics.12677