New Concepts in Body Cosmeceuticals

Facial skin care is a pivotal part of many people’s daily routine. But does this concept also reach to the topic of body care? In a session at the recent American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) Annual Meeting, held March 25 to 29, in Boston, Massachusetts, Neil Sadick, MD, FACP, FAACS, FACph, FAAD, highlighted new cosmeceutical concepts for the body, including the whole-body rejuvenation program and AM/PM approach.¹

Sadick is a clinical professor in the Department of Dermatology at Weill Medical College of Cornell University, New York, New York; faculty in the Department of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota, in Minneapolis; medical director of Sadick Dermatology, New York, New York; and president elect of the Noah Worcester Society.

In his presentation, Sadick highlighted that cosmeceuticals are a part of the whole-body rejuvenation program. The program, which is split into 5 parts, includes:

Protection

• Sunscreen/antioxidant
• Cosmeceuticals

Cell Turnover

• Chemical peels
• Dermabrasion
• Low level energy peels
• Cosmeceuticals

Muscle Control

• Neuromodulators
• Muscle stimulation devices

ECM Remodeling

• Radiofrequency
• Ultrasound
• Lasers/IPL
• Cosmeceuticals

Volume Loss Repletion

• Structural rejuvenation
• Biologics
• Energy devices

The key cosmeceutical functions for the body, according to Cosmeceutical Science in Clinical Practice, are to reduce erythema, reduce pigment, protect from ultra-violet light, protect the lipid layer, be anti-inflammatory, and stimulate collagen/lipolysis.²

While ingredients and function of a cosmeceutical is important, so is finding the best time at which to apply certain products for best results. The AM/PM approach does just that, according to Sadick.

For the morning, this approach suggests applying broadband UV protection, ultra-potent antioxidants, free radical scavenging, and 24-hour hydration products. In the evening, however, one should apply cell modulation, inhibition of dermal matrix degeneration, collagen, elastin, ground substance remodeling, pigment reduction, and redness reduction products for best results.

The last approach Sadick discussed in his presentation was the onion approach. Like its namesake, this approach has layers. On top is protection, including use of sunscreens, antioxidants, and hydration. Under the first layer is renewal with retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids. Lastly, the innermost layer is activation and regeneration. This layer includes peptides, growth factors, and stem cells.

When talking about body skin care, location acts as a guide for what ingredients work best. According to Sadick, the upper body needs ingredients in cosmeceuticals that target hydration, pigment, photodamage, and skin laxity. For the lower body, he said that hydration, tone, and laxity are the key issues of concern.

References:

1. Draelos ZD, Sadick NS, Taylor SC, Berson DS. The science of cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals. Presented at: 2022 American Academy Dermatology Association Annual Meeting; March 25-29, 2022; Boston, MA.
2. Sadick NS, Draelos ZD, Berson DS, Lupo M. Cosmeceutical Science in Clinical Practice. Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. Print publication. Published 2010. Accessed March 30, 2022.